Slow & Steady

by Kathy Humphrey

People all over the world have their own unique cuisines, evolved over the centuries and definitive of the culture that whisked them up. Those who live on the land tend to eat whatever is closest at hand and easiest to afford: this gives us the bread-basket of the Canadian Prairies, the cabbage and potatoes fueling Central Europe, and the rice paddies putting rice into the bowls of the people of Asia. From these family recipes, honed through generations of meal-time sharing, come the great culinary traditions of the world. Grains have been the foundation for many of these countries: when we are able to grow a crop, we know we can feed our families. Polenta fed the people living in the south of Italy in hard times: easy access to cornmeal and olive oil, and ready kitchen hands available to slowly simmer it up, made the creation of this soothing dish an obvious solution to feeding a family. Polenta has evolved, and from being a necessity, is now considered a sophisticated mealtime alternative to rice, potatoes, or pasta.

Cornmeal, oatmeal, barley, rice, semolina, bulgur, quinoa, and other grains all respond better to slow, steady cooking times (a general rule: a bit of care and attention never goes amiss!). Classic risotto is stirred constantly, over the course of 30 or 40 minutes, until the rice has absorbed every drop of stock and yielded a creamy, smooth mass. Congee, a gentle, very digestible rice broth ideal for feeding infants, or anyone feeling queasy, is made from rice simmered in three times the usual amount of water, for several hours. Porridge, the Scottish breakfast staple, comes from the careful stirring of oats, added bit by frugal bit, into boiling water. In a rushed family, cooked cereals may be best saved for weekend meals. Grains can be savoured for dinners, though—anyone can be pressed into a bit of stirring and a chat about the day’s happenings (who, what, when, where, and most importantly, why?).

Barley Orzotto
1 generous Tbsp each olive oil & butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup mushrooms, finely sliced
1 1/2 cups pot barley
splash white wine (can substitute apple juice)
6 cups (approx.) chicken or non-tomato based vegetable stock
1 (more) Tbsp butter
salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
 
Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan: reduce heat to simmer, and keep ready.
In large saucepan, melt butter and olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic: sauté, stirring, until soft. Stir in mushrooms: cook until wilted and well combined with the onions and garlic. Add barley: stir until each piece is coated with the vegetable/butter/oil mixture. Splash in wine and stir well until evaporated. Bring stock back to a gentle boil, and scoop a ladleful into the barley mixture. Stir evenly, until all stock has been absorbed. Continue scooping and stirring until the barley mixture is smooth and creamy, and the barley tender. Taste: season if necessary. Stir in additional butter and Parmesan cheese, and serve. (Pass extra Parmesan if desired.)

Creamy Polenta
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 1/2 cups chicken stock (or vegetable)
2 Tbsp rosemary, chopped
1 cup cornmeal
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

In large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic: cook, stirring, until soft. Add stock; bring to boil. Stir in rosemary. Reduce heat to medium-low. Gradually (the entire process should take about 20 minutes), add cornmeal, stirring well after each addition. When mixture is smooth and creamy and all polenta has been added, stir in Parmesan cheese.

Cooked Oatmeal
4 cups water, milk, or fruit juice
1 tsp salt
1 cup dry oats (rolled or steel cut)

In medium saucepan, bring water and salt to a rolling boil. Slowly, maintaining boil, stir in oats, stirring well to ensure that each flake is surrounded and penetrated by the boiling liquid. Continue until all cereal is added, then reduce heat and cook, covered for approximately 30-40 minutes for maximum flavour and tenderness (cereal will be sufficiently cooked at about half of that time). Stir occasionally while cooking.

Rice Pudding
4 cups 2% milk
1/3 cup uncooked short-grain rice
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 Tbsp butter
1 tsp vanilla
pinch salt

In large saucepan, heat milk over medium-high heat until bubbles appear around edge; remove from heat. In greased 8 cup glass baking dish, combine milk, rice, sugar, vanilla, butter and salt. Bake 325˚F for about 2 hours (until rice is just tender and most milk is absorbed), stirring twice during first hour of cooking. (Dried fruit, such as raisins or chopped apricots, can also be added).

Kathy Humphrey lives in Victoria with her husband and two children. She tries to see cooking for a family not as a chore but as a creative outlet.