September's Siren Song
by Kathy Humphrey

September, that tease. Dreamy golden sunshine, more soothing than July’s fierce white blaze, radiates in ribbons from a deep-blue sky. The leaves—some still green, some yellow-ish and some already blazing red and orange—rustle slightly in a wind that always, despite burning bans, smells slightly, nostalgically, of smoke. Fruit hangs ripe in the trees, days are long and warm, and dogs stretch lazily in warm pools of sunlight. All of these glories are spread out before us, but they must be enjoyed in small doses and through dusty windows, because September brings Labour Day and Labour Day brings a return to routine and school: this is the way it is, and the way that it always has been.

Routine, in general, is good. It is comforting to know what comes next without being confronted with endless decisions. However, it does seem unfair to be given two months to get used to a slower pace and then suddenly, when the weather is still fine, have to convert to a strict schedule.

This year, I am facing it with more trepidation than years past because my family and I have been on a leave of absence since March. Six months of fun, family, food and my own timeline suddenly comes crashing to a halt in as I am now faced with the need for school lunches and weeknight dinners once again.

Cooking (and eating) in Europe has exposed us to new recipes and food treatments that will keep us enthused for awhile. Soup and pasta are quick and popular and leftovers work for lunches. Cooking big batches on weekends and using the freezer makes weekdays easier. And hopefully, the sun will still be shining on the weekends!

Pasta Matriciana

3 Tbsp olive oil
125 grams pancetta, cut into small cubes
1 small onion, diced
750 grams tomato sauce
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 hot pepper, diced
1 package round long pasta (spaghetti, or thicker if possible) to serve

Bring large pot of water to boil. Put oil, pancetta and onion into skillet. Put onto stove over low heat and cook until onion is soft. Stir in tomato sauce; simmer for 15 minutes or until flavours are combined. Turn off heat, let sit. When water is boiling, cook pasta according to package directions. Drain well, add to pan with sauce. Mix well, turn flame on again to heat through. Spoon one-third of pasta mixture into serving dish, sprinkle with one-third of the Parmesan, and continue until done. Serve, passing pepper separately to be swirled in individual servings as desired. (When we were served this dish, our hosts stirred the pepper fragment through their pasta but left it uneaten, using it only to disburse heat).

Soupe au Pistou (Pesto Soup)

3 small zucchini
4 roma tomatoes
2 potatoes
2 leeks (or 1 small onion)
2 carrots
1/2 cup green beans
3 litres stock (chicken or vegetable)
1 tin kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 tin cannelini beans, drained and rinsed
3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves (if fresh not available, substitute 1/4 cup prepared pesto sauce for garlic, basil and olive oil)
4 Tbsp olive oil
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
salt, to taste

Peel potatoes and carrots; wash well then cut into diced pieces. Wash and mince leeks. Wash zucchini and cut into diced pieces. Trim green beans; chop into small pieces. Chop tomatoes into rough cubes. Bring stock to boil. Add all vegetables and the drained beans to the stock. Cover, bring to boil again, and then lower heat to a simmer. Leave to simmer for an hour and a half; taste partway through cooking and add salt if necessary. Crush the garlic cloves and blend with a little pinch of salt (using a mortar and pestle if available): tear the basil leaves into small pieces and add, mixing well. Blend well and add the olive oil, little by little, until you have a smooth mixture. Scoop ladle-ful of broth from pot on stove and stir into pesto mixture; add to boiling soup on stove and stir through. Serve with cheese to sprinkle over.

Thick Pea Soup

175 grams dried split peas, covered with boiling water and left to soak overnight
1.5 litres stock
2 medium leeks
1 medium onion
3 celery sticks
2 large potatoes
3 large cabbage leaves
salt and pepper
4 Tbsp parsley and leaves from head of celery, finely chopped, for garnish (optional)

Drain peas; simmer in 3 cups of stock for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, chop leeks, slice onion and celery, peel and slice potatoes quite thinly and shred cabbage leaves. Add all vegetables to pot with remaining stock: simmer for 30 minutes more. Season to taste; add garnish. Serve.

Kathy Humphrey lives in Victoria with her husband and two children. She tries to see cooking for a family not as a chore but as a creative outlet.